Making a "trip" a vacation

One of the best parts of traveling is the airports. I get engrossed in other people’s conversations. I choose a seat that is literally in the middle of seating areas and listen to as many conversations as I can keep separated in my mind.  While sitting at O’Hare airport in Chicago, I overheard a couple who had traveled to Italy tell another traveling couple that they didn’t need to go back to Italy, they had already seen it because they had been able to tour Venice, Florence and Rome in ten days. I let out a gentle snort at that comment and then thought about asking them if they enjoyed the trip because it certainly couldn’t have been a vacation. Sure, they probably saw all of the main attractions, Piazza S. Marco, a gondola ride, the David in Florence, the Colosseum, etc.  But what about the best gelato in the city, the neighborhood restaurant in Montecatini known only to the Italians because the food is prepared as the Borghese prepared food hundreds of years ago, the weekday they close the old city in Pistoia so you can stroll through the open market for all kinds of bargains? In Italy, getting lost in a city or small town is when you truly get to know its inner secrets.

The solution to taking a trip that feels like a vacation is simple. Pick a region, rent a house or apartment, find a lovely Agriturismo or B&B and establish a home base. Truly get to know the area you are living in and explore the hill towns, speak to the Italians and ask questions about their home, they are very proud people and are happy to tell you about themselves and their way of life. You would be surprised how many speak English and if they don’t, they will find a way to make you understand.  Everything you do on this trip must be unhurried, unscheduled and completely spontaneous. Sounds a little scary doesn’t it?

Our province to discover was Tuscany. I was born in Florence so I decided that we would rent a lovely apartment in Serravalle Pistoiese, a small hamlet between Montecatini and Florence. I had never been to this area but my desire for adventure told me this was a good home base. I chose this particular area because of its proximity to everything, the sea, the mountains, hill towns, shopping and all of Tuscany within a couple of hours drive from “home.” We had two other couples joining us for this Italian adventure who were also staying in apartments in the same Agriturismo.  An agriturismo isa hamlet that was once a farm with a main house, and other homes to house the workers that has been transformed into apartments and homes for vacation rentals. In many cases the land is still farmed so produce and animal products are made available to the guests as were where we rented. This would not have been the first time in Italy for any of them but when it was over, they all claimed that it was like they had never truly visited Italy before.

This particular day started by gathering for colazione, or breakfast, early in the mornings. Some of us had already taken long walks in the hills to see the sunrise.  Others had chosen to be awakened by the roosters or goats that pass along the trails. Cappuccino, fresh bread, fresh eggs and fruit all delivered in a beautiful basket from the farmers was a perfect way to start our morning of discovery. Choosing where to spend the day was easy after a quick internet search of possibilities.

Day one was Cinque Terre. Excellent choice as it was still very warm in September and the sea air was a perfect place to cool off. We drove to Lerici, a small sea town south of La Spezia, that would allow us to get on one of the many boats that would make their way up the coast stopping at every town along the Cinque Terre coastline.  My favorite? Vernazza with its beautiful bay area and colorful facades. We explored three of the five sea towns where we ended our excursion with a seafood lunch al fresco overlooking the ocean. We looked forward to heading home to Serravalle Pistoiese where our afternoons consisted of swimming in our pool and napping for a few hours before heading to Montecatini. There we would wander the open market for Italian bargains and dine at one our favorite al fresco restaurants, Ristorante Montecolle, high above the city just north of Montecatini Alto.

The following two weeks we were able to enjoy four vineyards in Chianti, San Gimignano, Siena, Prato, Bagni di Lucca, Sestola and numerous other wonderful small towns sprinkled throughout Tuscany. In Maranello, we visited the Ferrari factory where we were able to experience the thrill of driving a Ferrari through the streets of the city.  We were almost always home for our swim and afternoon siesta before heading out for a fun filled evening.  The key was having chosen an area for exploration and taking the time needed to truly get to know it.

This is how one takes a trip to Italy but makes it a vacation one never forgets.

Patrizia Trackman